RHONES WITH JAMES
THURSDAY, JUNE 27TH, 2013
#1 - 2010 Brotte Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Domaine Grosset
RP 91
From a 10 acre estate owned by the Brottes, the dense purple-colored Domaine Grosset 2010 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne is composed of 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre aged in both barrel and tank. It offers a pure nose of loamy, sandy soil, kirsch, black currant and new saddle leather-like aromas. This complex, delicious, mid-weight Cotes du Rhone-Villages can be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years.
This firm continues to dramatically improve the quality of its wines since Laurent Brotte, the grandson of the founder, Charles Brotte, took over management in 2000. Additionally, the brilliant Philippe Cambie is the consultant. Brotte is renowned for their non-vintage cuvee of Chateauneuf du Pape called La Fiole du Pape, which is usually a blend of three or four vintages and is sold in a misshapen, phony dust-covered bottle that undoubtedly horrifies purists. However, the wine is quite good, and to Laurent Brotte’s credit, they have started putting a lot number on the label.
#2 - 2010 Les Bosquet des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape
RP 94
The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Tradition was even better than when I tasted it last year prior to bottling. A wine of great intensity, it may be the finest Tradition cuvee yet made at Bosquet des Papes. Its opaque purple color is accompanied by sumptuous notes of balsam wood, roasted Provencal herbs/garrigue, sweet black raspberry and blackberry fruit and hints of truffles and lavender. This dense, full-bodied, amazing Chateauneuf is one of the top values of the vintage. Enjoy it over the next 15-20 years.
I have been following the wines of this estate since 1978, when the parents of Nicolas Boiron produced the wines. Nicolas, one of the tallest vignerons in the village, has been in charge for a number of years, and has unquestionably hit pay dirt over recent vintages. While many top-notch wines have emerged from Bosquet des Papes over the last 25 years, I do not think they have ever had a greater vintage than 2010, which has been followed by some of the finest wines of the vintage in 2011. Consumers should be looking out for this domaine’s wines as the quality has soared even higher than it already was. In 34 years of tastings, every time I go back to a wine region I seemingly know extremely well, there are always surprises, both wonderful and disappointing. My recent tasting at Bosquet des Papes ranks as the most remarkable I conducted on my trip to the southern Rhone Valley. For starters, two sleepers of the vintage are the 2011 and 2010 Cotes du Rhones. The Boirons own nearly ten acres of Cotes du Rhone vineyards situated on the other side of Domaine du Marcoux in the northern part of the appellation. Their vines are separated from the Chateauneuf du Pape appellation by a narrow two-lane road. Both Cotes du Rhones are blends of 80% Grenache, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah aged in tank. Bosquet des Papes’s 2011 Chateauneuf du Papes are among the great successes of the vintage. Nicolas Boiron told me something I heard from just about every vigneron and oenologist: 2012 was looking perfect. However, as we all remember, so was 2002 until the historic flood hit on September 8 and 9. On September 24, 2011 approximately three inches of rain fell of Chateauneuf du Pape, which will affect the outcome. No 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape a la Gloire de Mon Grandpere was made.
#3 – 2009 CHÂTEAU DE VAUDIEU Châteauneuf-du-Pape
WS 93
Ripe and very polished, with black currant, blackberry and black cherry fruit allied to solid tannins that are deeply embedded on the finish. Hints of toasty anise, spice cake and graphite fill in the background. The polished feel makes it seem accessible, but this is densely packed and merits cellaring. Best from 2012 through 2022. 1,875 cases made. –JM
The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is a consumer-friendly, open-knit, precociously styled offering displaying a dark ruby/plum color along with evolved scents of kirsch liqueur, seaweed, underbrush, pepper and spice box. Enjoy this pleasant, round, juicy Chateauneuf du Pape over the next 7-8 years.
This chateau, owned by the quality conscious Brechet family, sits just to the south of Rayas. A large estate of over 175 acres, Vaudieu made only one cuvee in 2009, but three in 2010, include a new offering, the Admiral G.
#4 - 2009 Alain Jaume Vacqueyras "Grande Garrigue"
No Robert Parker nor Wine Spectator reviews.
From The Wine Miner:
70% grenache, 20% syrah, 10% cinsault. Another quintessential Southern Rhone red from the Jaumes. The brawny nose is all herb, red and black fruit, and stone, with significant spice and cocoa components. On the palate the wine is rich with fruit but not unsubtle; rosemary and white pepper team up with assertive -- but not overbearing -- tannin and just enough acidity to achieve balance.
#5 - 2007 Xavier Vins Chateauneuf du Pape
RP 94
The 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre and the rest Syrah, Cinsault, Vaccaresecarese and Counoise. The Grenache comes from 90-year-old vines, the Mourvedre from 75-year-old vines, and the rest from vines of at least 25 years of age. The Grenache is aged in tank and the Syrah and Mourvedre are kept in small oak casks. The 2007, which tips the scales at 15% alcohol, exhibits an extraordinary bouquet of garrigue, smoked meats, black cherries, blackberries, licorice and Asian soy. With stunning power, opulence, body, richness and purity, this brilliant Chateauneuf du Pape will age effortlessly for 15+ years.
I visited the three owners of Xavier Vins, the young oenologist, Xavier Vignon, who is the brain trust behind so many of the wines, and his two partners. This relatively youthful, serious negociant company has been doing some extraordinary consulting work in Chateauneuf du Pape, working for such estates as Raymond Usseglio, La Gardine, Jerome Quiot, Beaurenard, La Nerthe, Mont Redon, Maucoil, Roger Perrin, Chateau Marcoux and Domaine Grand Veneur. They access gorgeous fruit from many different appellations and are doing a top-flight job of getting impressive quality into the bottle. Moreover, there are some top values in their portfolio as well.
#6 - 2006 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Collection Alain Corcia "Crème de la Crème"
RP 93
The 2006 Chateauneuf du Pape Creme de la Creme is Corcia’s selection of the best lots. A bigger, beefier version of the Cuvee Patricia, it is a classic example of Chateauneuf du Pape. All of these wines are aged in small old barrels prior to bottling."
Ebullient Burgundian wine broker, Alain Corcia, who does some of his best work in the Rhone Valley, offers a solid selection of Cotes du Rhones and Chateauneuf du Papes that are both good values and very fine wines. Corcia’s Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are strong in both 2006 and 2007. These are selections he makes from several well-known estates on the plateau of Chateauneuf du Pape that undergo slightly different blendings and upbringings. All named after family members, they are more similar than dissimilar
#7 - 2010 Domaine Duseigneur Lirac Astrolobe
RP 92
Made from 100% Syrah, the 2010 Lirac Astrolobe is aged in both concrete tanks (90%) and old barrels (10%). It, too, was bottled without filtration. It reveals tremendous Syrah characteristics (especially for a southern Rhone) such as blackberries, acacia flowers, incense and camphor notes, a broad, expansive texture and superb intensity. Drink this impressive effort over the next decade.
This outstanding Lirac estate is an emerging star in the southern Rhone. From their biodynamic and/or organic vineyards, they produce three separate cuvees of Lirac. Well-known oenologist Philippe Cambie is the consultant at Domaine Duseigneur.
#8 - 2010 Domaine de Pignan Chateauneuf du Pape
RP 89
As for the 2010s, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape possesses copious quantities of black raspberries, black cherries, pepper, roasted meats and loamy soil notes. Made from a blend similar to the 2011, it offers lots of glycerin, a full-bodied mouthfeel, an open-knit personality and a succulent, luxurious finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.
Created in 1989, Domaine de Pignan can trace its origins back to an estate called Domaine Antoine Pecoul, which was producing wines in Chateauneuf du Pape in 1855. From his nearly 37 acres of vines, proprietor Frederic Charvin (no relation to Laurent Charvin) has turned in the finest efforts I have yet tasted from Pignan.
Rhone Reds on a hot summer night.
James treated us to steaks and starlight as we enjoyed the first heat wave of Southern California in his beautiful back yard. Full attendance meant not just eight REDgents, but EIGHT WINES! The quality of depth of this tasting was, IMHO, one of our finest.
Check out the somewhat lengthy set of reviews and notes at the bottom of this web page. And enjoy the photos of yet another glorious RED night!
-- Tim