DAVID HOSTS AT DISH RESTAURANT

#1 Doug - Vendome $50

2003 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Tortoniano

RP: 88

Chiarlo’s 2003 Barolo Tortoniano reveals an attractive ripeness supported by firm, yet well-balanced tannins, with an added touch of sweetness from the oak. This lovely, delicate Barolo is made in a feminine style, and should be consumed over the medium-term. Anticipated maturity 2008-2015.

Michele Chiarlo owns plots in some of the area’s best vineyards. In past vintages the wines have been all over the map in terms of quality so its nice to see him bounce back with these strong releases.

WS: 87

Has lots of plum aromas, with a tea and cedar undertone. Full-bodied, with soft, silky tannins and a medium finish. Best after 2008. 7,000 cases made. –JS

#2 Tim - Red Carpet $50

2004 Armando Parusso Barolo

RP: 89

Parusso’s 2004 Barolo is a refined wine with sweet herb and toasted oak notes that complement the perfumed ripe fruit. Medium in body, it offers excellent persistence and silky caressing tannins on the finish. It is a superb effort at this level. Parusso’s Barolo sees roughly 50% new oak. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016.

Marco Parusso aims to make elegant Barolos that emulate much of what he admires among his favorite Burgundy producers. The fruit gets a 2-3 day cold soak to allow the grapes to recover from what Parusso describes as the shock of being harvested. The wines are fermented at a lower temperatures than is the norm here in order to preserve freshness. Parusso works with natural yeasts and minimal amounts of SO2, leaving the wines on their lees for 16-18 months, another practice that is uncommon in these parts. As was the case throughout the region, the harvest was fairly late by today’s standards and the last of the Nebbiolo was brought in towards the end of October.

WS: 91

Crushed blackberry, with toasted vanilla and coconut on the nose. Full-bodied, with seamless, ripe tannins and a long, caressing finish. Refined and beautiful. Polished. Best after 2011. 1,660 cases made. –JS

#3 Rey - Vendome $40

2004 Michele Chiarlo Barbaresco Reyna

RP: 87

The 2004 Barbaresco Reyna is a simple but pleasing wine, with an open, accessible personality and good depth. It will offer its best drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2014.

WS: 87

Has strawberry and dried flowers on the nose. Medium-bodied, with fine tannins and a medium finish. There's pretty fruit, though this is a tiny bit short. Best after 2010. 2,500 cases made. –JS

#4 Chris - Alamor Liquors (Sunset & Fairfax) $75

2004 Fratelli Revello Barolo

RP: 89

The 2004 Barolo is a stylish, elegant offering with perfumed red fruit and an accessible, feminine personality. It offers notable freshness and sweet tannins in a restrained style. In recent vintages this has been a very reliable entry-level bottling. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014.

WS: 90

A balanced, fruity wine, with strawberry and blackberry character and hints of flowers. Full and fruity, with a chewy finish. Needs time in the bottle. Best after 2010. 1,000 cases made. –JS

#5 David - K&L Wines $60

2004 Pio Cesare Barolo

RP: 93

The estate's 2004 Barolo is very elegant in this vintage. Although the wine is firm and quite primary, the tannins are sweet, silky and refined. Today the wine reveals just a glimpse of its potential but it should develop into a gem with time. While most of the attention at Pio Cesare goes to the Barolo Ornato, this is the hidden beauty in this lineup. This Barolo is a multi-commune blend. Most of the fruit (60%) comes from the less well-exposed portions of the family’s Ornato vineyard, while the rest of the fruit is sourced from plots in La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, Serralunga, Novello and Grinzane Cavour. The wine was aged in French oak casks (70%) and smaller French oak barrels (30%). This wine offers an incredible level of quality considering the production is 80,000 bottles. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024.

Proprietor Pio Boffa has fashioned some of the finest wines of his career with his 2004 Barbarescos and Barolos. These 2004s are remarkably open even at this early stage. When I asked Boffa if he thought the 2004s would shut down in bottle Boffa responded that it was unlikely because the wines would have already begun to clamp down at this stage if they were indeed headed for a stubborn period. Boffa continued to say he had never seen a vintage with such quality and quantity, echoing a refrain heard throughout Piedmont when discussing the 2004 vintage. Like so many producers, Boffa has backed off the French oak, a move that has benefitted his wines to a huge degree.

WS: 94

Extremely attractive aromas of blackberry, fresh mushroom and mahogany. Full-bodied, with lovely fruit, soft tannins and a long finish. Chewy, yet balanced and pretty. Builds on the palate. A big and juicy red. Best after 2010. 7,000 cases made. –JS